By Jessica Barlow
London-based Sculptor Gabrielle Sellen utilizes her Brazilian heritage to create elaboratly-structured pieces. The viewer is invited to marvel at their obscure familiarity. Drawing inspiration from cocoons to vintage jet plane engines, her work focuses on the assemblage of textiles and the readymade. In her own words her work: “Demonstrates the juxtaposition between the exotic and the industrial.” A walk down the street is a means of foraging for her next sculpture as she sources pipes, exhausts and other mechanical objects in order to build and sew her structural totem-like forms.
Speaking of her method of working, Gabrielle says:
“My work is expressionist and compulsive with structure. I wind up making pod and totem-like tactile structures, which seem to immediately take on characters. I want them to be inviting and curious with heavy emphasis on the ‘internal and external.’ I enjoy the makeshift temporary quality juxtaposed with making a rendition of a somewhat monumental piece of engineering.”
See more of Gabrielle at: http://2009.atcamberwell.com/courses/bahons-sculpture/students/gabrielle-sellen
By: Jessica Barlow
Felix’s Machines are music making sculptures. Constructed in his bedroom, they exist to facilitate music by translating rhythmic audio structures into a three-dimensional visual show. Both as musical instruments and kinetic sculptures they invite the audience to share the experience of the creator.
Through exploiting the complexity behind digital music Felix creates a happy medium where the viewer is invited to ‘play’ the accessible sculptures, whilst marveling at their sculptural beauty. A wave of the hand incites sensors to set off a chorus of melodious clicks, whirrs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_Ajg1G3vik —- embed video with this youtube link
As the creator, Felix says “Although my medium focuses on the development of acoustic sounds, I am continually inspired by electronic music – the countless abstractions act as blueprints for the construction of its acoustic counterparts. I aim to build a space where artificial and dream-like environments can become a reality.”
See more of Felix’s Machines here.
FAULT: How would you describe your music?
TLB: well.. it’s kind of.. atmospheric? cinematic? can I say ‘trip’ music??… you just have to close your eyes and let yourself fall into it…it’s just instrumental so everyone can see/hear whatever they like/feel while listening. Maybe someone could say vocals are missing… mmh..I think it’s sad that many people pay so much attention to vocals and singing… I mean ‘voice’ is good -and can also be seen as an ‘instrument’- but I think ‘music’ is definitely better… music ‘speaks’ much more than ‘words’ do.. I’m totally blown away by ‘sounds’..’obsessed’ I would say… got music spinning in my mind 24 hours a day.. but my music has words too.. yes words.. you can read them while listening.. yes read them (you could even sing them if you can!) …they just describe what the music I write is about… like the plot of a book or a play… you can read the ‘plot’ but when the music starts you can just close your eyes and let your imagination be totally free.. vocals put limits to imagination.. it’s like when you watch a movie.. it’s too much of a ‘passive’ thing while you can ‘see’ so many different worlds with just music!! it’s like… more…‘interactive’ as we would say nowadays…anyway my music is kind of sad I think or dark if you prefer… I think sad stuff is much heavier and has got a kind of ‘depth’ that pop music doesn’t have… it’s meant to last with the passing of time while you get bored of the same pop song if you listen to it too many times.. it’s perfect music for endless sleepless nights and for broken dreams that never come true..like most of dreams never do…
FAULT: What is the creative process of your music?
TLB: oh that may depend from time to time.. having said I’ve constantly music going on in my mind I usually ‘write’ it without any instrument… it’s just in my mind… then I just put shapes to my ideas with the instruments… usually drums and bass come first and guitar riffs are the last ever thing to be added… for THE OCEAN DREAM I had this bass line in mind for..ages? and I realized it was time for it to be put into a song one sunny day on the seaside in Spain… I really had to close my eyes as there was too much sunshine and I tried hard to see the dark side of that day… It took a long while to find the right sound for the bass anyway… drums sound like they’re covered by water and that is definitely an evocative effect… while guitar riffs weren’t even intended to be included.. a very fast and last minute thing… for THE CLOUD GIRL I wanted the song to be as long and heavy as possible.. I was trying to create the worst and saddest stuff ever.. I wanted the listener to be fed up with it and to turn the music off mid-song.. then I (partially) changed my mind… maybe.. or maybe I reached my original goal (laugh..).. someone I really care about said it was very bad and so at the very end I added strings that I laid down one day while driving to the office at 7.00 am half asleep.. not such a romantic scene you would say… but this was an exception to my self-made writing pattern… no-one ever influences my ideas..it’s always my one and only point of view… only my ideas… it’s a one-man/one-mind project… even more than a “solo” project.. I write and play all by myself too (even all the pictures and artwork are made by myself)..so it’s much worse than a dictatorship!! (laugh..) no-one else would ever fit in my mind…AS THE ANGELS SLEEP was much more difficult… too many ideas in my head and I changed my mind (too?) many times… THE MORNING SUN was just me working on as many guitar sounds as possible..and THE LOST BOY was the very first thing I played on my new Thunderbird Bass…
FAULT: Tell us about your musical background?
TLB: it all happened by accident one afternoon when I was very young… I found a tape-cassette of a friend of my elder brother at home… it was a compilation from (the darkest era of) THE CURE.. that changed my life forever… it was the weirdest feeling I ever had… nothing I knew or I was listening to at the time sounded like that… it was the best thing it ever happened to me… it was so strange it took me a while to understand what was really happening.. I had never even seen the band’s faces and I was not influenced by their look or stuff like that as I was not aware of it… moreover no one at home listened to alternative music and before that moment Patsy Kensit’s “Eighth Wonder” were the best band ever to me (oh they were really good though!!). Then I came across SIOUXSIE AND THE BANSHEES live album ‘NOCTURNE’ which had been released some years earlier… it was more than a revelation.. I was so impressed by SEVERIN bass lines I decided it was time to get a bass and start to play! he just wrote the most innovative, intriguing, weird, strange and beautiful bass-lines ever… bass became definitely the instrument of my life… my fave one…ECHO AND THE BUNNYMEN came at the same time… first songs I learned to play.. still can’t tell with words how good they still are…
FAULT: Who or what inspired you to take a career in music?
TLB: definitely the bands above and my obsession for “sounds”.. but only after many years I decided to put into music my own visions and dreams.. it’s like making a sculpture of the inner side of my mind, soul and heart… I don’t think the word ‘career’ is appropriate though… these tunes have always been living inside of me… maybe it just came the day I thought it was right to let them being heard by the world outside…but THE LOST BOY is just a part of me… I’ve got so many ideas that are so different from each other… and maybe they don’t fit with this project at all… dunno if they will ever see the light of the day… maybe it’s good to keep some of them in my dreams… it’s much better having a life full of dreams than a life full of songs… or not?
FAULT: What age did you discover music?
TLB: do you mean music or GOOD music? lol! anyway the tape-cassette story happened when I was 12…
FAULT: What are you working on at the moment?
TLB: always working on lots of ideas.. maybe too many ideas all at the same time.. well, the next song must be better than the previous one… I’m always so unsatisfied with everything I do… I’ve got different sounds in mind too but they may fill different projects of mine… THE LOST BOY has got a very mood of its own… every song is a chapter of a very long plot…
FAULT: Do you have a style icon?
TLB: yes I do.. but ‘style’ means much more to me.. it’s ‘attitude’ to me..I use ‘symbology’ a lot too and everything I do comes from a studied plan… there are a lot of deeper meanings no-one can really understand or see or know…
FAULT: What has been the biggest compliment you have ever been given and who was it from?
TLB: I had lots of excellent feedback that really made my day!!! Aurelio from CALLA, one of my fave band, once said he likes THE OCEAN DREAM… it’s a big honor to me… I think they’re one of the best, yet most underrated, band in the world! and Maria from Australia.. she’s just gorgeous!
FAULT: What was the first album that you bought?
TLB: KISS ME KISS ME KISS ME from THE CURE… every now and then when I listen to it I feel this incredible sense of freshness.. can’t tell with words.. the sound is so rich and cool and that album is such a big masterpiece… so many moods and feelings…
FAULT: Who would you like to collaborate with?
TLB: it would be too obvious to say.. ROBERT SMITH! (laugh..) naah I don’t think it would be that easy to work with him… he would definitely succeed for that aforesaid dictatorship.. LOL! but if still someone says vocals are missing in my music… I’d love to collaborate with Natalie… she’s from New York and used to play and sing in a band called SOME CANDY.. she’s very much talented and has a wonderful voice.. As we live so far away from each other we might end up with a project called “e-mail service” (laugh..) unfortunately THE LOST BOY songs are written from a boy point of view… but I’d really love to have some of my tunes being sung by her……and there’s also this beautiful girl that’s just started learning playing guitar…
FAULT: What new music are you listening to?
TLB: mmh..new bands? I like HTRK, CRYSTAL CASTLES and COLD CAVE to name a few but I think the myspace thing is so great… you can have access to millions of cool and unsigned bands.. lots of music without the manipulation of record companies… you can have free access to so many good songs.. there’s lots of experimental and electronic stuff I really like… very interesting… mainly unknown artists… too bad most people is leaving now for facebook which is so dull… so boring and full of common and un-artistic people that have really nothing to say… sad…
FAULT: What couldn’t you live without?
TLB: music… definitely… but football (soccer) as well! and of course there are some items I’d take with me on a desert island such as an iphone or my mac…
FAULT: Who has been your biggest influence?
TLB: the bands I mentioned above… but ‘broken dreams’ too…
FAULT: Do you feel sexy when you perform?
TLB: aww noo! (LOL!) well to say the truth I don’t actually perform… I mean my music is made to be listened to in bedrooms with the lights switched off… I’ve seen so many unknown bands performing in small clubs and it’s so annoying seeing 99% of the audience always chatting or drinking all the time… no-one really cares nor really listens to the bands playing..so why should I do that… I think most of artists play just to satisfy themselves… their own ego or just to ‘feel’ it inside and that could be Ok… mine is just NO-FACE music instead… and if someone doesn’t like it then they won’t listen… uh and however how could I play all the instruments on my own?!?! lol…anyway I really hope my music can be ‘sexy’…somehow….LOL…
FAULT: Do you have a favorite artist/photographer?
TLB: yeah… Joanna Gniady from Poland… she takes such beautiful pictures and wonderful illustrations… they’re so colorful so they might not fit with my music but I really love them.. she’s very talented and also very supportive with what I do! also Rebecca Etter from Seattle.. she takes such breathtaking pictures… she’s amazing… generally speaking I do love photographs…
FAULT: What are you looking forward to?
TLB: peace of mind and love… and also writing a dance hit for clubs….true!!!
FAULT: Where do you see yourself this time next year?
TLB: sitting here answering more questions from you! lol! naahh probably doing the same old crappy job…
FAULT: What is your FAULT?
TLB: maybe I just dream too much…
official website: http://www.thelostboy.eu
Stella McCartney’s limited edition necklace and bracelet for Disney’s Alice in Wonderland
Antoine Antoniadis, a young Franco Greek designer based in Paris since 2009, will show his first Autumn-Winter 2010/2011 womenswear collection at:
Palais de Tokyo
Thursday 4th March
13 Avenue du Président WILSON
Debenhams today was the first high street retailer to break the taboo of using disabled models in campaign photography.
Following an approach by Nikki Fox and Natasha Wood, both disability campaigners and presenters of the hit TV show, How to Look Good Naked, with a Difference, Shannon Murray, 32, who has been confined to a wheelchair since breaking her neck in her teens will appear in photography in the stores windows and online.
Shannon will join three other models, Kate Fullman, a size 16 model, Tess Montgomery, a petite 5”4 model and Tokumbo Daniel, a size 10 model who will all appear in imagery to promote the recently launched Principles by Ben de Lisi range which prides itself on its inclusivity. The range starts at size 8 and goes up to size 20 with a specific petites offering.
Unlike other high street stores Debenhams is showing an increasing willingness to inject some variety into the people modelling its clothes. The campaign follows hot on the heels of the retailer using size 16 mannequins in its windows.
Michael Sharp, Debenhams’ Deputy Chief Executive said: “We cater for women of all shapes and sizes, young and old, non-disabled and disabled so we wanted our windows to reflect this choice.
“When Nikki and Natasha approached us with the idea, we didn’t have to think twice. We are proud to be the first high street retailer to deliver this. We only wished we had done it sooner”, concluded Sharp.
Nikki Fox praised the store for using Shannon in its campaign: “I am so happy and proud that Debenhams has used our disabled model for such a massive campaign. It’s a really big deal. If seeing Shannon helps another disabled person, then we’ve done well.”
“Every woman deserves to look good and feel special- which is why there are styles to suit, fit and flatter every body shape in the new Principles range. I think that Shannon looks amazing,” added Ben de Lisi.
Shannon Murray complemented the retailer for supporting disabled models: “I think this is a fabulous step forward by Debenhams and I’m proud to be part of such a big move towards positive representation of disability in high street fashion.”
Gok Wan added: “We in the UK have the best high street in the world. It’s a multi million pound industry that needs to recognise all shapes, sizes and disabilities. Filming How to Look Good Naked has been a life changing experience for me, because I have learnt so much about a community I knew existed but have never been involved with.”
“Debenhams is pushing the boundaries by producing the first ever disabled fashion campaign in conjunction with How To Look Good Naked , and I hope that one day disabilities will be recognised by every chain in the high street”, Wan concluded.
The imagery won’t be a one off. Debenhams says that it is committed to using disabled models in other photography. Already a second photo shoot is being organised. It has also approached Premier Models to see if they could be the booking agent for disabled models for future campaigns.
Initially the images will be used in Debenhams Glasgow, Guildford, Oxford Street and Nottingham branches with the intention of rolling out across all stores.
By Emete Yarici
It’s a number of days before London Fashion Week, so far I am calm and have my schedule all planned out, outfits, well that’s another matter, think bomb site and that should be the overall feel of my wardrobe after I attempt to put together outfits for the week, but for the designers behind the shows, nerves are high and sleep is low, yet somehow at the end of it all these designers produce stunning shows with beautiful collections oozing with talent. One of those designers this year is Derek Lawlor.
Having graduated from Central St Martins, his MA collection sparked much interest from the fashion press, he is one of the few students that graduates to have found his own style and totally unique methods of producing edgy and innovative knitwear.
Today he released a preview statement of what to expect from his new collection:
“Inspired by the texture and colour of John Piper’s paintings, Lawlor builds on the densely intricate, structural aesthetic of his debut, fusing more traditional cabling and intarsia elements with modern fabrics and weaving techniques.
Softly feminine cashmere, mohair and moleskin are layered with waxed cotton cord in a palette of moody blues, greys with a splash of bold colour to create a collection of versatile separates and stand out pieces that offer an edgy, innovative take on bespoke knitwear for the modern woman.
The AW10 collection is a development of Derek’s signature cord technique, moving on from Japanese body armour he has been inspired by art deco architecture. Focusing on the different patterns and geometric shapes, Derek has transformed his cording technique to a much more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Derek was also inspired from the paintings of John Piper,
” I really love the textures which explode from his paintings” .I wanted to introduce the idea of different textures within my new collection. Combining mohair, Cashmere, Mole Skin and Wax Cotton has allowed me to manipulate different compositions and produce sculptural pieces to offer an edgy, modern take on bespoke knitwear.”
–Derek Lawlor on his A/W2010 collection”
You can see more of Derek’s work here: http://dereklawlor.com
By Roshannah Bagley
LONDON, British label ‘Jervoise Jackets’ was established nearly three years ago by Kingston design graduate Zoe Graham. Featuring bespoke items with beautifully handmade tapestries, the 21 year old’s one-off pieces have since proved popular among British musicians – Marina Diamond (Marina and the Diamonds), George Craig (model and lead singer of One Night Only), Coco Sumner and indie band White Lies have all been spotted donning individual creations. With features now in British Vogue and US publication Nylon, the fashion industry is now taking note of this flame haired beauty. Zoe talks to FAULT about her unique pieces, working with her mum and dressing some of Britain’s finest rising stars.
FAULT: How did ‘Jervoise Jackets’ come about?
Zoe: I’ve always made tapestries and been heavily into the arts, I started these tapestries with my mum just as a hobby, (she is an artist too). I loved the designs we were producing and had always wanted to do something in fashion as well, so I wanted to find a way to translate the tapestries to fashion. Denim I think is something that will never leave our wardrobes – I’ve always worn it. I began playing around with different materials, the tapestries needed to be “updated” and I found using denim it did so automatically. I only started making them for myself and friends, my boyfriend and I at the time were both wearing them at Isle of Wight festival in 2007, and I met George Craig from One Night Only. He really loved my jacket and asked me to make him one, he really encouraged me to start making them properly. Turns out it was a good idea!
FAULT: What inspires you?
Zoe: Anything can inspire me; people inspire me, especially creative people. That’s why a lot of the people who wear my jackets are musical or artistic in some way. My designs are very sixties and seventies inspired, I love the artwork and fashions from those eras. Art is an inspiration from modern art to Indian art to Aztec art.
FAULT: Will you be exploring other textile mediums for future pieces?
Zoe: Yes I’m looking at doing some different things at the moment but its still in the pipe line and it’s a secret. All I can say is that its tapestry renewed.
FAULT: Are there any fashion designers who have had an influence on your work?
Zoe: I love Balmain, and the way in which they put fabrics together, but I wouldn’t say that any specific designers have inspired me. I wanted to look outside the box, if I just take inspiration from other designers I’m missing out the whole thought process. Therefore I wouldn’t make the best designs because I haven’t gone from the root of the idea to the end product.
FAULT: Will you be extending the line into other garments or accessories?
Zoe: Yes I’ve already started, I’ve now extended it to embroidered t-shirts which I made for Marina and The Diamonds as a limited addition (they’re on sale soon!), denim shirts and waistcoats with embroidery. I’m also going to be doing trousers and shorts soon.
FAULT: What are you working on at the moment?
Zoe: At the moment I’m working on doing some new photo shoots and a little film involving the jackets. I have two different people working with me – one is Max Knight, a great up-and-coming photographer, and the other is Georgia King who is an actress but has directed a few short films that I really loved, so we’re working on something together now. This will all be showcased in a very exciting way, but that’s for the future. I’m obviously all the time sewing as well, as one of the tapestries normally takes me about a month to make.