By Roshannah Bagley
BUCHAREST, Romania: The realms of architecture, geometry and Japanese design collide in fashion graduate Diana Nita’s MA collection. Here she shares her thoughts with FAULT on what it means to be a conceptual fashion designer in Romania.
FAULT: Where did you study fashion?
I have a license in Fashion Design from the University of Fashion Design and Decorative Arts here in Bucharest, Romania, and I have also earned a Masters Degree in the same field.
What previous experience do you have in the fashion industry?
I have worked as an assistant designer for various well known Romanian designers and as an accessories designer for the Anna Rinaldi brand. As for press, I have done some collaborations with Elle, Tabu and Bolero magazines as a stylist as well as designer appearances in Elle, Bolero, Unica, Beau Monde, Tabu. In 2007 I have also participated with a group collection from my University to the Lasi Fashion Week, the timeliest and most famous yearly fashion event in Romania.
FAULT:What was your inspiration for your MA collection?
I would say it is more of a conceptual project, rather than a collection. It is my dissertation project that I created having a number of ideas in mind, ideas that I then passed through my personal lens-filter, the human-cosmos relation, the tendency towards a spatial futurism – architectural constructions, geometry, over dimension – as if it were from another planet. The cube symbol that is often found in the creations represents symmetry and stability; it is actually a single cube that dualizes, as if rolling off the exterior wall of the pant.
It also represents the tridimensional, bulged outwards, like a gate towards the future that pierces through the vague and shy conventions through spacious structures and shapes.
I’m inspired by and I also use high tech fabrics with a papery, gummy, rubberish, crinkly feel. The outfits are infiltrated by the experimental music world, where sounds are dislocated and recomposed, cold colours coalesce with beiges and hidden chromatic accents (the inside of the pockets are neon-coloured), all of it climaxing into a sound-chromatic amalgam.
FAULT:What is it about avant-garde architecture you find fascinating?
I am fairly attracted by geometrical structures with spatial aspects like the works of Charles Ryan McBride, as well as the overall style of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. I am a big fan of Rem Koolhas and Zaha Hadid because of their innovatory style and desire to create buildings that are different, with fluid shapes that reminisce of nature but that are also entirely sleek and high tech in design.
FAULT:Which designers would you cite as influential on your work?
Txell Miras, Hussein Chalayan, Giuliano Fujiwara.
FAULT:What are your hopes for the next five years?
I would like to collaborate with international designers and contemporary artists, as well as developing my own brand.
FAULT:What are you working on at the moment?
At this moment I am working on a new collection, for the fall-winter season and I am also working on a small collection of digitally printed fanny packs.
FAULT:As an emerging designer in Romania, how much difficulty are you having in the fashion industry?
The industry is not as developed as in other countries, so you have to learn the ropes the hard way, since there aren’t many programs or opportunities for young aspiring designers. Overall the available technologies and production techniques are very limited, as opposed to other countries, so that is a major setback.
FAULT:Are there any plans to further extend the Diana Nita label?
For now the label only exists at an experimental level. In the future I would like to collaborate with visual artists for future performances, conceptual short films and events gathering all these elements: experimental clothes, music and scenery. I would also like to create experimental outfits for fashion editorials and other projects that would turn into a small business development.
Photography: Ana Topoleanu and Mircea Topoleanu
Make up: Ramona Ursan
Photography: Alex Ranta
Make up: Ramona Ursan
Hair: Andreea Dumitrescu